About the author: Mahesh Nayak is a journalist, creative writer and graphic designer by profession, located in Mangaluru. Hailing from the famous Bovikana Nayak family, he has studied life and living style of various cultures. From his schooling days, he has been writing articles which have been published in various books, magazines, journals and newspapers. His articles and graphic designs reveal a touch of class, while taking us into the reality of virtual world.
Though we are living in the same locality, I came to know Mahesh just 6 years ago. Mahesh is at least a decade junior to me, his writing abilities and his penchant for good food and living have brought him closer to me. He loves traditional foods and has a good knowledge of GSB style food and ingredients. Mahesh has travelled widely and has left no stone unturned, when it comes to sharing his experiences.
His pastimes are mainly reading, writing true stories and poems, petty adventures, animal care, video documentaries, studying flora and fauna and socialising with creative groups. He has been the executive editor of Mangalore Today print magazine since many years. He runs Iris Design & Communications, an advertisement and designing consultancy in Kodialguthu East, Mangaluru.
This is Mahesh's first article for Kudpiraj's Garam Tawa. In this article, he has reviewed the Balochistan Food Festival which is running at the Ocean Pearl, Mangaluru. I am sure, it will enthrall the readers while taking us into a virtual journey through the colours and aroma of the lavish Balochistan spread. Thank you Mahesh for the inputs. - Kudpi Raj
Balochistan could well have been Timbuktu. Hardly anyone even knew it existed on the map. But it’s been in the news lately for political reasons, the result of which is a food festival at Hotel Ocean Pearl. Balochistan Food Festival, I suspect, is a brain child of the hotel’s marketing department, which would have instantly smelled an opportunity to please the guests with the region’s new found mystique. Balochistan is the largest of Pakistan’s five provinces and is wedged between Pakistan (which it hates), Afghanistan, Iran etc. That’s as bad as life can get. Much of its cuisine has to do with roasting direct on fire and some say it’s the birth place of kebab. Anyway I was sufficiently excited by the idea of the festival and decided to check it out. Coral Restaurant, the venue of the food festival wore a festive look with cutouts of camels and enticing displays of sacks full of grains and spices. The festival features a-la-carte menu. Unfortunately I had only me to order for and I had to choose carefully. True to Balochistan’s reputation, most of the food items were of Tandoori lineage and there was good choice between fish, chicken and lamb preparations along with some treats for the veggies too.
I decided to begin with soup and asked for a Murgh Asrafi Shorba. It was good. This I followed with Saaji Chicken, which is supposed to be a popular dish. Normally a whole chicken is roasted. Here I was served with four roasted chicken thighs. Though tasting a bit unfamiliar it was good to eat – maybe the strangeness is because the spices and herbs used in the masala are alien to us. For main course I asked for Murgh Dum Biryani, which was a mix of white rice and coloured rice with two chicken pieces thrown in. It was delicious, but not much different from Coral’s regular Biryani. For dessert I had Kesari Phirni, which was also good.
Murgh Asrafi Shorba
Saaji Chicken
Murgh Dum Biryani
Kesari Phirni
Balochistan Food Festival is worth a try. The price is reasonable and the quantity is generous. The taste might seem unfamiliar, but after all it’s supposed to be from an unfamiliar place. When it comes to food festivals it’s a good idea to go as a big crowd as you can try out many more dishes. I was trapped into a solo position. Hence I had to order very little and still parcel about half the stuff. Balochistan Food Festival is hosted by Hotel Ocean Pearl (Coral Restaurant) and runs from 11th June to 24th June. A footnote: My lunch was actually a treat from my rich friend Abdullah who could not join in the feast as he was fasting for Ramzan. The dude not only suffered the torture of witnessing me gobble to glory on an empty stomach, but also paid the bill without a second thought. Here is a photo of my friend commanding his portion of the table.
Pai Fishland in Bhatkal opposite KSRTC Bus Stand, one of the oldest eateries, is a hangout for hot flaky Kerala Parottas that can be relished with a simple Sherwa or nonveg gravy, Chicken Sukka or some other local style chicken preparation. My relative Arun Isloor highly recommended the joint and I was fascinated to see them doing brisk business last Sunday evening when we were returning from Sirsi and stopped over for packing dinner. Apart from parottas, they have fish curry rice, fish masala fried, tawa fried, rava fried, Chicken 65 and a few other delicacies. Authentic Bhatkal Dum Biryani and Kushka are added attractions. That's not all. All these items are very reasonably priced. You may blow your top, if we say that the price of nice fresh hot flaky Kerala Parotta is Rs.6/- each! Two parottas with sherwa cost you Rs.20/-. Tawa fried Anjal/Seer fish may be priced just Rs.100/-, and you may feel lucky! So, what are you waiting for! Stop over at Pai Fishland on your way to Murudeshwar, Karwar, Goa, Sirsi, Hubli or Dandeli and have a sumptuous chicken and seafood treat! It is reasonably clean, toilet attached. Kudpiraj's Garam tawa was previleged to have a peek into their kitchen and check out what's cooking! Here are some of their dishes and also step by step pictures showing how they make Kerala Parottas in front of our eyes!
When someone having born and brought up with all the
comforts in life decides to start an enterprise where he has to sacrifice most
of his sleep and worldly pleasures, it is normal for his parents to discourage
him and divert him to follow their footsteps. Quite contrary to such stereotype
families, we have one in Bangalore where the parents not only encouraged their
son to follow his passion and open a seafood restaurant, but they also are supportive
by means of helping him out during their free time, taking care of customers
and formulating traditional Konkani GSB recipes for his recently opened
restaurant on 100 Feet Road in JP Nagar 5th Phase called ‘Coastal
Mama’.
This is not a story from any Hindi movie or TV serial. This is a true story.
The enterprising youngster is Sanjay P Mallya and his parents are Prabhakar
Mallya and Jyoti Mallya, owners of Mallya Enterprises, a Plastic Injection
Moulding factory that has successfully completed over 4 decades in MM
Industrial Area, KR Road,
Bengaluru.
Sanjay, a science graduate in his early Forties, was partner
in his father’s firm, looking after the operations along with his elder brother
Sunil. Then one day, he sensed the need of Mangaloreans settled in South Bengaluru, and he had a deep urge to start a
coastal seafood restaurant serving mainly Konkani GSB style specialties. He
discussed the matter with his parents, both foodies and expert cooks
themselves. Prabhakar Mallya’s favourite hobby is cooking, himself being a pure
vegetarian is a perfectionist in vegetarian cooking, while he also prepares
nonveg and seafood for his family occasionally and that’s by any standard
marvelous, as certified by his family members!
As I am given to understand, Mr Mallya’s family owns an age old GSB style pure
vegetarian restaurant in Fort Mumbai started by his father by name
‘Gopalashram’, and he has the experience of looking after that business during
his hey days. Sanjay’s mother Jyoti Mallya is an expert in making Mangalorean
nonveg and GSB style seafood preparations, ‘Fish Phannaupkari’ being one of her
prized recipes which Coastal Mama has adapted. Perhaps Coastal Mama is
dedicated to his expert mama Jyoti Mallya by Sanjay!
Though the Mallyas are closely related to my childhood friends Dr Vishwanath,
Taranath and Premnath Shenoy, I never had a chance to meet them personally and
look into their activities in Bengaluru. Meena was more close to them because
she met them always at Premnath and Uma’s home when they visited Mangaluru. I
had shared the pictures and contact address of Coastal Mama on Garam Tawa
Facebook page as soon as they opened the restaurant in July last year, but I
never had a chance to visit there personally. I had also highlighted the excellent
‘Avare Kaalu Hurigaalu’ made by Prabhakar Mallya, which I had a chance to taste
every year during the season. Three months ago Prabhakar Mallya saw my
activities on Facebook and he befriended me. There started exchange of thoughts
on food and living. Mr Mallya heartily invited me to visit Coastal Mama and his
home in Bengaluru and I too had an urge to visit there and check out what all
they serve and taste that too.
The urge to taste Coastal mama food was increasing inside
me, as some of my friends in Bengaluru kept on talking about it! I was fairly
free during the third week of January and I also had plans to visit my cousin
Premakar in Bengaluru after a gap of 2 years. So I planned my trip and landed
in Bengaluru on January 16, which was a Saturday. On Sunday the 17th
I was invited for lunch at Coastal Mama along with my nephew Darshan Pai by
Prabhakar Mallya on behalf of his son Sanjay. Mr Mallya also said “A common
friend of ours is also coming, and that’s a surprise for you!” The surprise was
indeed pleasant one when I actually reached Coastal Mama that afternoon with
Darshan, and our friend Dr KP Mallya a physician at SairamHospital,
arrived with a broad smile on his face!
On a weekend and Sunday, the usual crowd is mostly Mangalorean but many locals
also come for relishing coastal seafood here. Spacious kitchen is bustling with
activities under the lead of able Chef Madhav, who has many years of experience
in preparing multi cuisine restaurants and clubs. His specialty is Kundapur
style seafood and chicken preparations because he hails from Kundapur. Other
assistants are adept at making the spongy idlis called ‘Sannas’, string hoppers
or ‘Sevian’, ‘Aapam’ and desserts.
Prabhakar Mallya
Jyoti Mallya
Dr KP Mallya
Darshan Pai
Dinesh - Manager of Coastal Mama
A quick glance through the regular and the special menu revealed an exotic array
of seafood specialties highlighted. Of course the ever popular items like
Biryani and Kebab are also found here. Highlighted are Seafood Soup, Masala
Fried, Rava Fried, Tawa Fried and Ghee Roast for lovers of Mangalorean Bunt
style seafood, Kori Rotti, Pulimunchi, Kundapur Chicken and Chicken Ghee Roast
among coastal chicken delicacies, Fish Phannaupkari, Prawn Hinga Udak, Aalle
Piyavu Ghashi, Batate Humman, Batate Song, Upkari, Dalithoi, Ghashi, Aambat and
Koddel among GSB specialties and many more. People come from far away places in
search of fresh seafood preparations at reasonable prices. I saw brisk business
with many takeaway orders that are delivered to door within a radius of 6 Kms
without delivery charge since the day Sanjay opened the restaurant on July 12,
2015, but he says, they charge for packing and may also charge nominal fee soon
for home delivery, as they have to depend on outsourcing agencies for delivery
and the agencies keep hiking their rates. One can also place order for food
online through Swiggy and Zomato.
We occupied a table near the cash counter and the Mallyas
ordered choicest delicacies for us. Prabhakar Mallya is a good host, and he
said, “Kudpi Raj, try our Kokum Kadi. It is perhaps the best in this part of
the world!” I had no doubt about that, as I took one sip of the drink
consisting of kokum extract enriched with coconut milk and mildly spiced with
garlic, chillies, and some other ingredients. It was too delicious for words!
Next on the table was seafood soup, as recommended by Sanjay. It was full of
shrimp and crab meat, sweetish with little tang and full of flavours. Full
marks go to that.
Kokum Kadi
Baby Corn Crispy Rava Fried
Anjal Fish Masala Fried
Squid Rings Crispy Rava Fried
Kaane Fish Tawa Fried
Chicken Ghee Roast
Neeru Dosa
“Let the starters come one by one….” announced Mr Mallya. So there were starters
like Baby Corn Crispy Fried, Crispy Squid Rings(Rava Fried), Dr. Mallya’s
choice Kaane Fish Tawa Fried, Anjal Masala fried and of course the inimitable
Chicken Ghee Roast which went well with silky smooth Neeru Dosa! While the
former three dishes were just right, I felt that masala fried and ghee roast
were spicier than what we get in Mangaluru. Sanjay says his customers prefer
seafood and chicken dishes very spicy and hence they upgraded pungency of the
masala two steps higher than normal. He added that if the customers prefer it
medium hot or mildly spiced, they make it accordingly. I could very well see
people relishing the spicy dishes without feeling hot. Perhaps the cool
Bengaluru weather can accommodate that extra spice!
For main course, Aapam with Prawn Hinga Udak, Sevian with Potato
Humman, and Kori Rotti were served. Hinga Udak/Humman is a spicy tangy GSB
style curry with added hing and fresh coconut oil for that divine aroma. GSB
curries are simple with any one kind of seasoning in them. Basic masala is
coconut tamarind and red chilli based one. Prabhakar Mallya explained me how simple
our GSB curries are, but how difficult it is to get the right flavour if we
overlook some finer points.
Quite impressive, I thought. No wonder Coastal Mama has very good chefs and
helpers in the kitchen. The Mallyas motivate them to cook according to the
demands of Mangaloreans settled in Bengaluru. Chef Madhav personally came to
our table to ask if the dishes were made according to Mangalorean standards. I
approved his cooking expertise.
Jyoti Mallya has her own experience to share. She said Fish Phannaupkari and Prawn
Hinga Udak/Humman made by Coastal Mama are her signature dishes. She used to
make the masala paste for the curries initially but now the chefs manage to
make it as per the recipe passed on to her by her mother 5 decades ago. Mrs
Mallya feels happy, that her ambition to introduce those two Mangalorean
Konkani GSB dishes in Bengaluru has been fulfilled by Coastal Mama!
Dr KP Mallya resides nearby, has dined at Coastal Mama many times and he says,
their recipes are consistent and he is happy that he gets all the Mangalorean
GSB style preparations so close to his place of living. My nephew Darshan tasted
their food for the first time and he was in consensus with me when we both
agreed that each item is better than the other!
Raagi Manni - Dessert
Mini Gadbad - Ice Cream Sundae
With Sanjay P Mallya - Proprietor
Then the desserts arrived. First it was Raagi Mani or finger millet pudding
made by a kitchen assistant, which not only looked lovely, but it just melted
in the mouth, releasing subtle flavour of jaggery with a hint of cardamom and a
cherry garnished over it, adding to beauty. Then arrived the ‘Mini Gadbad’, an ice
cream sundae formulated by the same young chap. Dr Mallya said, it was on par
or better than Ideal’s in Mangaluru.
Thus my first dining experience at Coastal Mama almost came to an end, but a
train of thoughts ran in my mind as to how meticulously the family enterprise
is running smoothly in spite of recurrent labour problems, rising costs and
fluctuating seafood prices in the local market.
Sanjay manages to smile all the time and says “It is my brainchild and I have
to nourish it, support it and make it stand firm and gallop. I am not after
mass appeal but we do have very good regular customers who come in search of good
food. I am ready to work round the clock to see that things are alright and
there are no complaints whatsoever. Both my parents have been very supportive,
they are the pillars of strength for Coastal Mama, and I thank them for
allowing me to follow my passion and being with me always. We had teething
problems initially like in any other business enterprise, but my loving elder
brother Sunil, and my beloved wife Shefalie have instilled their full support
and encouragement in me, and are always my well wishers. What else do I need to
run the show?”
I have every reason to believe him, as I have seen how patiently and
meticulously he manages the show and how his family people support him.
When I asked Sanjay about the popular and fast moving dishes
in Coastal Mama, he said “Seafood Soup, Chicken Ghee Roast, Squid Ghee Roast,
Prawn Phannaupkari and Prawn Masala Fry, Anjal tawa Fried, Squid Rava Fried,
Clams Sukkha to name a few.”
He also spoke about his future plans and said “We would like to introduce Goan
and Konkan cuisine on our menu. We are not into catering as such, but we would
certainly give it a positive thought in the not too distant future. We have
been in this business for little over Six months now. Right now our priority is
to continue with quality cuisine, good service and pleasant ambiance that we
have created. If we succeed in maintaining the same standards or even improve
on that, we can think about opening a branch or branches.”
“I live nearby and I have been a fan of Coastal Mama from day one. Their
preparations are lip smacking; their phannaupkari is the best I have ever
tasted. My wife Shilpa and my two kids
simply love the food here. We take food parcel regularly on weekends and also
dine here as and when we find free time. Sanjay and his parents keep personal
touch and make us feel at home always”, opines my young friend Nithin Bhandary
a resident of JP Nagar who is working for a multinational company.
Sanjay with his family members
With Chef Madhav
Chef Madhav presents Chicken Kubera
Chicken Kubera - My signature dish
With Chef Madhav and Mallya Family
With Coastal Mama proprietor and crew
Sanjay says "Bye, come again!"
After dark, the night ambiance with shimmering candle light on every table, lit
up romantic mood, taking us into a dream world!
“We are dining here for the second time, and we liked the preparations very
much. Seafood is homely and we felt like in Mangaluru when we eat here”, said
Shubhangi and Satish Kabad while their two young daughters smiled approvingly.
Prabhakar Mallya didn’t fail to greet them all, and get their feedback. Jyoti
Mallya was talking to Dinesh the manager and asking him about quality control.
Watch this video(English Version)
I also entered the kitchen to see how things are moving
under the lead of Chef Madhav. Chef Madhav told me that some of the Kundapur
dishes he introduced are liked by all, and the Kori Ghassi, Pulimunchi and
Sukkha are very much sought after by even Bangalorean locals. I complemented him for making the best Crispy
Babycorn and Squid I have ever eaten in my life so far, which were better than
they make in star hotels! Then I asked him which special dish he is going to demonstrate
that evening, and his simple but firm answer was surprising!
He said “What else Sir! I am going to make your own signature dish Chicken
Kubera!” I was overjoyed and the time spent with him in the kitchen watching
him prepare Chicken Kubera with ease, was truly heartening. He made it
perfectly, as per my recipe passed on by Sanjay to him before hand. I could
make out by the flavout itself that Chicken Kubera by Chef Madhav was a
superhit at its first edition! All those who tasted it gave a high five and
said that it was by all standards, star dish of the day!
With a satisfied feeling of having visited one of the finest restaurants in South Bengaluru that has many Mangalorean GSB and Coastal
Karnataka delicacies on the list, I wished luck to Sanjay, the Mallyas, Manager Dinesh, Chef
Madhav and their team before leaving the place.
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Coastal Mama completed one year of successful service on July 12th, 2016. They have news for those who like North Indian and tandoori specialties. They also have announced 10% discount on the occasion of their 1st Anniversary until July 17th, 2016.
