Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Chicken Ghee Roast - Baked Style

Kundapur in undivided South Kanara District was a small town in the Fifties. This town was the gateway for travellers from Southern Mangalore and Kerala visiting places of pilgrimage like Kollur, Kumbhanshi and Shirali.  Road communication was not prominent, National Highway was not built, bridges were not built across the rivers that led to this town from the Southern major town Mangalore, people crossed the rivers by boat and reached Kundapur spending over 5 hours! Shorter direct route was via Someshwar at the foothills of Agumbe Ghat. This is what I am given to understand from my parents when I was young.

Well, I am not going into History of Kundapur, nor am I trying to discuss geography of South Kanara District here. I'm just trying to highlight this small town that has grown big over the years with cultural activities like the world famous folk dance drama art 'Yakshagana', the town that has given thousands of culinary experts who have rooted the world over serving fantastic Udupi style breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kundapur also has given us a world famous dish called 'Chicken Ghee Roast'.

How on earth a dish from Kundapur reach global level today? What makes this dish so popular? Who first made and served this dish in a restaurant? What goes into it, and how can we make this dish the unconventional way. These are the points I am going to discuss here based on the information I collected from some of the contemporaries.
It was year 1956 when Thejappa Shetty hailing from a Bunt family decided to start a restaurant serving only lunch to satisfy the hungry people coming from the Southern coastal towns. He started Shetty Lunch Home in a small way with limited dishes like Fish Curry, Fish Fry, Chicken Sukkha, Kori Rotti, Kundapur Koli Thalna or the local specialty Kundapur Chicken.

Eventually he added many specialties formulated by the local chefs like Fish Naked Masala Fried and Chicken Ghee Roast. Chicken Ghee Roast was a superhit, and its aroma loaded with pure spices and pure ghee spread all over and the dish travelled from Kudapur to Mangalore and landed in Thejappa Shetty's newly opened branch in Mangalore, Anupama in Hotel Usha on Balmatta Road. Here the dish got its popularity and many local restaurants started making the dish but not quite like how Thejappa Shetty's restaurant made it. There was a time in the Sixties and the Seventies when people from Mangalore went to Kundapur just to taste the delicacies at Shetty Lunch Home. A stopover for lunch was mandatory for most of the non vegetarians travelling to and from Bombay and Goa. Though Kundapur and Mangalore are 90Kms apart, the undivided South Kanara District was popularly known as Mangalore District in other parts of the old Mysore State, and thus we proudly and rightfully call this dish as Mangalorean delicacy!

The ingredients that go into the dish was a secret and after Thejapa Shetty passed away, his sons Mohandas and Ravi continued the tradition by running the restaurant in Mangalore while original one at Kundapur was managed by their cousins. The same taste and aroma lingered on for many years, when one day in the late Nineties Anupama on Balmatta Road had to close down due to lease period getting over. Then Mohandas Shetty moved over to Abhiman Residency near Bunts Hostel Karangalpady and started Anupama Restaurant there. Thus the trend continued. Now Anupama's Shetty Lunch Home has reopened in Hotel Usha building Balmatta Road, where you can taste the authentic ghee roast today with the magic touch of Shetty Lunch Home Kundapur. Ravi Shetty has opened a chain of restaurants in Bangalore with this and many other delicacies under the name 'Coast to Coast'. Shetty Lunch Home also functions in RT Nagar Bangalore, where you can find the original Chicken Ghee Roast.

Though Chicken Ghee Roast is the signature dish of Late Thejappa Shetty at Shetty Lunch Home Kundapur and Hotel Anupama was responsible for spreading its aroma the world over, today many restaurants make this dish as good as Anupama. Almost every small and big restaurants have this dish on their menu! The reason is globalisation of the masala and the recipe for making it. There is this Kundapur Masala Powder that's the main condiment that is used to make this dish. In the Eighties when I was regular at Anupama in Mangalore, I had asked my personal friend Ravi Shetty many times about the formula of the masala that goes into Ghee Roast and Egg masala Fried dishes but he said, it's a secret which he himself didn't know!

Through certain source I got the know how of making Prawn Ghee Roast 8 years ago but that's a tedious process of roasting and grinding the masala ingredients. 25 years ago we came across Saranya Hegde's cook book 'Mangalorean Cuisine' that has the recipe how to make Kundapur Masala Powder but we never knew that the same masala is used to make Ghee Roast. We also made that masala powder and used it to make 'Uppu Motte'(Masala fried Egg) as per instructions and that didn't taste very good, as we missed out something.

Then one day in the year 2010 as I was discussing about food with a friend at a local restaurant, he said there's a fantastic chicken masala powder available at Sapna Stores Padubidri with which we can make number of dishes. I kept that in mind and next time as I passed by Padubidri, stopped over and bought the masala, which was nothing but Kundapur masala! For some time we were making just chicken curry for Kori Rotti and Kundapur Chicken using that masala. Then I thought why not try making masala fried fish with it, like the Uppu Motte we had tried, adding more tamarind and oil. We made Kane Fish Masala Fried and that was a success. Then I was confident and used the same masala to make Prawn Ghee Roast as well as Mushroom Ghee Roast. Just the other day our good neighbour Usha Attavar said, there's a better masala powder made by a home industry run by a lady in Kundapur and she gave us two packets got through her brother. Yes. This Coastal brand masala powder is much better than the one available at Sapna Stores. Purity of spices can be felt as we open the packs. They claim it as hand pounded.
Here it is, Chicken Ghee Roast that we have tried many times with Kundapur Masala. I have added tamarind extract, salt, garlic paste, brown onion paste and plain curd to the masala and marinated the chicken for one hour in the fridge. But keeping in mind the health consciousness of our good followers and people settled abroad, I am following baking method that's not only less greasy but also easier than pan roast method. I added tips on how to make it wet type to go with rotis and dry type as a starter or side dish with main-course. Amount of ghee added here is almost 50% less than we normally add in pan roast method. However, people not used to baking may follow the pan roast method, which I have mentioned in the footnote. For those having difficulty in procuring Kundapur Masala Powder, here's the recipe for making the powder at home.

Whichever way you make it, Kundapur Masala Powder makes the lip smacking ultimate finger licking good Chicken Ghee Roast.

Ingredients:
Chicken breast and joints without Skin  - 1.5 Kg cut into 10 pieces
Kundapur Masala Powder - 40 Gm(Approx. 8 Tsp)
Tamarind - 2 Tsp thick extract(Or a small lemon size ball in 20 ml water)
Plain Curd(Yoghurt) - 30Ml(2 Tbsp)
Brown Onion Paste - 4 Tsp(Sliced Onions shallow fried with little oil till brown and ground to a paste)
Garlic Paste - 1 Tsp
Salt - 1.5 level Tsp(Approximately)
Clarified Butter(Desi ghee) - 50Ml(Add more if you like)

Method:
Wash and drain chicken pieces, put gashes and keep aside.
In a bowl, mix curd with Kundapur masala powder, salt, garlic paste, brown onion paste and tamarind extract.
Apply the paste over the chicken pieces and marinate in the fridge for 1 hour.
Line a baking dish with aluminium foil and apply little ghee.
Arrange the marinated chicken pieces in the dish and pour the remaining marinade over them.
Drizzle 25ml ghee and brush the ghee evenly over the chicken pieces.
Preheat oven at 180C for 10 mins.
Keep the baking dish inside the oven and bake for 15 mins at 180C.
Remove and transfer on to a wire rack.
Flip the chicken pieces and drizzle remaining ghee over them.
Brush the ghee again and keep the dish inside for further baking at 220C for 15 mins.
By this time chicken pieces get tender and the masala gets well infused into the chicken.
Empty the chicken with the masala into a serving platter lined with plantain leaf and serve hot with lemon wedges and choice of salad.
This can be served as a starter dish or with phulkas or rotis.
Note:
1. If you want the chicken ghee roast to be more dry and served as a starter or with rice main-course, after the second baking, flip the pieces again, drizzle little more ghee and bake for another 5-10 mins till the pieces get well browned.

2. Those who prefer to roast the chicken directly in pan, choose a thick bottomed nonstick pan with lid, add 50 ml ghee in the hot pan and place the chicken pieces in it covered with lid and cooked on slow heat for 10-15 mins, then turned over, more ghee added and roasted further with lid open for 5-10 mins. Lastly roll the pieces in the masala carefully with wooden ladle so that the masala is evenly roasted and the chicken pieces are also uniformly brown.

Sunday, December 14, 2014

Oats Chocochip Biscotti

Recipe Courtesy: http://www.fitfoodie.in/recipe/chocolate-chip-biscotti-plain-oats
 
Festive season is here again and here's something good to bake for Christmas.

Meena was baking something this afternoon and I had the wafting aroma of chocolate and vanilla from the kitchen. I thought she must be baking just another chocolate cake as a surprise to someone. I was wrong. When I entered the kitchen, I saw her slicing something that resembled a Calzone but had the texture of bread. When asked, she replied that it is Biscotti made with Chef Vikas Khanna's recipe.

I've grown up eating plain rusk and Caraway Rusk from local bakeries. They make good accompaniment with any hot beverage at tea time or as mid day snack. Biscotti is a fine form of rusk very much Italian as the name suggests and are too good to resist!

When she kept the slices of the bread for second baking, I realised that this is how rusk is also made, but this one has added eggs in it. The end product is simply marvelous. Oats make them crumble in the mouth and also add to the taste. They are light, tasty and have the delicious flavour of chocolate. A must try for those who are passionate about home baking. With strong filter coffee, one can go on eating them.

Ingredients:
Plain oatmeal flour (place regular plain oatmeal in a blender and make flour) - 1 cup
All-purpose flour - 1 cup
Butter - 1/2 cup softened
White Sugar - 1/2 cup
Brown Sugar - 1/2 cup
Baking powder - 2 teaspoon
Eggs - 2
Semi-sweet Chocolate chips - 1/4 cup
Vanilla extract - 1 teaspoon

Method:
Preheat the oven at 180 C.
Sift together flours and baking powder.
Keep aside.
Take 1 tbsp of the flour mixture, add to the chocolate chips and mix till the chips are coated well in the flour.
Keep aside.
In a large bowl cream butter and sugar till the mixture turns pale.
Add eggs (one at a time) and mix well.
Add vanilla and mix.
Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture and mix with a spatula till it comes together as sticky dough.
Mix in the chocolate chips.
Turn the dough out on a floured surface and using your hands form it into a ball.
Divide the ball into two equal parts and transfer onto an oiled and dusted baking sheet.
Keep them at least 4 inch apart.
Shape each dough into a 6 inch log shape, flatten the top with your hand and sprinkle some sugar on the top.
Bake the logs for 20 to 25 minutes, check if its cooked completely by inserting a toothpick in the centre (it should come out clean).
The logs will crack slightly on its surface but it’s okay.
Let the logs cool completely on a rack.
Cut each loaf into 1/2 inch slice and bake again (on the same baking sheet) for 10 minutes turning the baking sheet midway.
Cool the biscotti completely before serving.
It will stay in an airtight container for upto a week

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Murg Tikka Paan Rolls

The Indian Sweet Betel Leaf or paan is an essential mouth freshener cum digestive chewed by many in daily life. It is mostly chewed after the meals. Though there are hundreds of paans with added tobacco and other intoxicating agents available in almost every nook and corner of India, sweet paan is most sought sfter, which is liked by men, women and children. Any festive dinner is highlighted by paan. Paanwalas can bee seen near restaurants and markets with their petty make shift stalls. As per my knowledge, Mumbai has the highest number of paanwalas in the entire world!

Some years ago, Chef Sanjeev Kapoor had demonstrated on Khana Khazana,  how to make Shaam Savera, a spinach and cottage cheese dish which attracted my attention. Later in year 2010 when we used to frequent Vintaage Inn, a restaurant that was being run by an enterprising guy called Vinayak. He introduced many innovative dishes and he used to ask us if we would like to try new dishes. One such starter dish was 'Beeda Kebab'. Vinayak told me that it looks like paan roll and tastes similar to paan. I was surprised to hear that and we did order and taste it. It was OK, but not great. It lacked flavours. The filling tasted as if chicken is stuffed with Biscuit Rotti filling. The added grated coconut in the filling spoiled the taste.

Years rolled by and recently it was our good friend Uma Shenoi's birthday. I wanted to present a starter dish for Uma, something exotic, something unique and something she had never tasted before!

Using my imagination, borrowing the idea from what Vinayak had served us at Vintaage Inn that day in 2010, I came out with this one that I named 'Murg Tikka Paan Rolls'. It has the subtle taste of spinach blended with with a hint of mint and the biting taste and flavour of betel leaves. It has succulent juicy marinated chicken filled with sweet aromatic filling of fennel seeds, nuts and dry fruits with the redness of Kashmiri Chilli Powder and the tongue tickling taste of dry ginger. In a way, Kashmiri cuisine has much influence over this recipe.

Before we proceed to check the recipe, let me mention in brief about what any typical Indian Meetha Paan(Sweet Betel Leaf) consists of. Following the traditional preparation of paan, I have formulated the dish, of course with my own imagination to replace certain ingredients with suitable ones. After all, this is a chicken dish and we should also get the taste of chicken. Yet, adding garlic and onion to this may spoil the flavour. Hence I suggest, don't add any of those into this!

Essential constituents of a typical Meetha Paan(Sweet Betel Leaf):

Paan has its own good and bad effects on individuals due to tobacco and arecanut as per research studies, but I am highlighting some of the safe and healthy substitutes that I have added to suit the dish, at the same time giving almost the same flavour and taste as a typical pan has.

1. Any good variety of betel leaf - Kolkata, Banarasi, Salem leaves are very famous. They are sweeter than the Madras and Mangalorean leaf. Here I have used the local Mangalorean leaf which is quite pungent. To neutralise the pungency, I have added paalak leaves. If you use Kolkata or Banarasi Paan, you can double up the number of paan and reduce number of paalak leaves. Mint leaves are added for that minty flavour you get while chewing the paan. Make a paste of all the leaves add spices to the paste and use for marination.

2. Chuna(Lime paste) - Lime paste mixed with paan gives a different feeling for the paan chewer. Here I have symbolically represented chuna with hung curd with added Kashmiri Red Chilli powder for colour and other spice powders for flavour.

3. Gulkand(Rose-Honey Preserve) - Gulkand is made from wild pink rose and honey traditionally processed and preserved in ceramic jars. It is the sweetener added to make the paan tasty and succulent.  Sadvaidyashala of Nanjangud was famous for Gulkand in Karnataka. I have personally seen how they make Gulkand in 1988, since Meena was close to the owner BV Balasubramaniam son of BV Pandit, the founder of Sadvaidyashala. As newly married couple then in September 1988, we were invited by him to wish us and bless us.

I have represented gulkand with chopped candied pineapple, Tutti Fruity and raisins with added honey. You may add dates if you prefer and eliminate candied pineapple. I had stock of pineapple candy from Soans Farm Bannadka, hence used that.

4. Supari(Arecanut) pieces/flakes, Saunf(Fennel), Dhania(Coriander), Catechu(Acacia powder extract), Elaichi(Cardamom), Menthol, Jeera Mithai(Sugar coated Cumin) - These are dry ingredients that are added over gulkand for substance. They add to flavour and help in digestion. In these paan rolls, Dry fruits like roasted almonds, pista and cashew bits mixed with Khuskhus(Poppy Seeds), cardamom powder and nutmeg powder are added. Nutmeg belongs to the Arecanut family and looks similar. However, being very strong in flavour, I used just a pinch of nutmeg.

I am sure, this will be liked by all age group people. Surprise your family and friends with this. They wouldn't mind asking you to repeat the dish often, especially in these cold and dark winter months. You may serve this as a starter dish or a side dish with rotis and curry or any rice dish.

Ingredients:

For Marination:
Chicken Breast - 1 or approx 400Gms
Salt - To taste
Hung Curd - 1 Tbsp
Turmeric powder - 1/4 Tsp
Kashmiri Chilli Pwder - 1 Tsp
Garam Masala Powder - 1/2 Tsp
Black Pepper powder - 1/2 Tsp
Lemon - 1/2 


For the Green Paste: 
Palak(Spinach Leaves) - A handful chopped
Mangalore Betel Leaves - 2 chopped(or Salem, Kolkata Or Banarasi leaves 4-6)
Mint Leaves - 1 sprig chopped
Cumin Powder - 1/4 Tsp
Black Pepper powder - 1/2 Tsp
Dry Ginger powder - 1/4 Tsp
Coriander Powder - 1/4 Tsp
Corn flour - 1 Tbsp
Egg white - 1


For the Filling:

Fruity Filling:
Candied Pineapple or de-seeded Dates - 6 chopped
Raisins - A handful chopped
Tutti Fruity - A handful
Dry Ginger Powder - 1/4 Tsp
Cardamom powder - A pinch
Nutmeg powder - A pinch
Honey - 2-3 Tsp

Nutty Filling:
Tiny Cashew Bits - A handful
Almonds - 8-10 chopped
Pistachios - 15 chopped
Toasted Fennel Seeds - 1 Tsp
Toasted Poppy Seeds - 1 Tsp


For final baking:
Butter - For basting
Wooden strong Toothpicks
Whole Clove(Optional)


Method:

Preparing Murg Paan Rolls:
Wash the chicken breast, carefully slice the chicken breast with a sharp knife and separate two heart shaped sheets from both sides.
Pat dry them or dry them with a kitchen towel.
Grind palak leaves with mint leaves and betel leaves into a thick puree without adding much water.
Add 1/4 Tsp dry ginger powder, pepper powder, coriander powder, cumin powder, corn flour, salt to taste and mix well.
Spread this paste on a platter.
Combine juice of half lemon, hung curd, turmeric powder,  Kashmiri chilli powder, garam masala powder, salt and pepper, rub over the chicken sheets on one side.
Place the chicken slices over the green paste and marinate for 30 mins to one hour in the fridge.
Mix the tutti fruity, raisins and dates with cardamom powder, 1/4 tsp dry ginger powder, nutmeg powder and honey.
Lighly crush roasted almonds, pistachios, fennel seeds, poppy seeds and mix with cashew bits.

Baking:
Preheat oven with baking tray lined with aluminum foil for 10 mins at 180°C.
Grease the baking tray with sufficient butter, spread the sheets of marinated chicken on the tray, green side down.
Apply sufficient fruity filling on them.
Top them up with sufficient nutty filling.
Roll the sheets into half moon fold to cover the filling.
Apply half the left over green paste from marination on them to cover them properly.
Bake at 180°C for 15 mins, baste with butter, flip them upside down,  apply remaining green paste, bake for another 10 mins or till slightly browned.
Baste with butter, flip them over and prick toothpicks at one inch gap and optionally prick with cloves or just leave the toothpicks intact.
Beat egg white till frothy.
Brush the beaten egg white all over the rolls and bake them for another 10 mins or till golden.
(Coating with egg white gives that leafy glaze all over the rolls).
Remove from the oven and slice the pieces with a sharp knife between the toothpicks.
Serve on a platter with choice of salad and lemon wedges.

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